Sunday, 23 November 2008

Cambodia - best place so far!

And so we arrived in Cambodia, and yes you've guessed it, we had another disastrous journey! We arranged to go on a 2 day boat trip up the Mekong delta from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh, thinking it might be a nicer alternative to yet another awful bus journey. We could not have been more wrong! On day one after 3 hours on a bus we reached our tiny motorboat to see some sights on the river. First of all was the floating market where all the Vietnamese buy and sell fruit and veg in the morning, however this had already finished so there were just a load of empty boats and some old fruit floating in the water.
Next they took us to a little village where we had to ride old bicycles with flat tyres and no brakes to a restaurant where they served lunch. The food was so expensive and with no other choice we decided to go without. After this, back on the boat to a bus where we spent the next 5 hours. This was not on the schedule, so as you can imagine everyone on the trip who was expecting a nice relaxing tour was fuming. We were dumped in a hotel in Chau Doc, on the Vietnam-Cambodia border, which had no electricity throughout the night, and nothing in the area to see or do. The following day they had us up at 6am to get back on the bus to see more pointless sights, such as a fish farm and tribal people who were obviously putting it on for the tourists. Eventually, after more drama involving a slow boat with a broken engine, and yet another bus journey, we arrived in Phnom Penh $34 lighter and in a foul mood!
Thankfully Phnom Penh was great. We arrived at a really good time, Independence day followed by 3 days of water festivals to celebrate the end of the rainy season. The city was buzzing and the atmosphere was brilliant, we couldn't have been there at a better time. We jumped on a tuk tuk to the lakeside where we checked ourselves in to a floating guesthouse. It was actually built over the lake and flooded every night when, like clockwork, there was a torrential downpour!
After a massive lie in the next day we strolled along the riverside to watch all the provinces of Cambodia compete in boat races. The streets were full of locals who were all having a great time cheering on their teams and getting involved in the festivities. The moment we arrived here we noticed the difference in the people, they are all much friendlier than in Vietnam and China.
That night we sat at a roof top bar, treated ourselves to a bottle of sangria, and watched the fireworks displays and general hustle and bustle on the streets below.
The next day, feeling recovered and ready for some culture, we headed to the S21 museum, which is where people were held prisoner during the Khmer Rouge takeover in the 70s. The 4 buildings were originally a school, which they turned into torture chambers, which has now become a museum. You can walk around it and go in the tiny cells, and even see the scratch marks in the walls, whether these are real or not i don't know. The whole thing was pretty horrific; they had photos up of all the people that were taken there during that time, too many to look through properly, but there were men and women of all ages, including young children. After the S21 museum we were taken to the killing fields, which is were people were taken by the truck load to be killed. In the middle of the field is a memorial building containing items of clothing and human skulls that were found over the years in the field. As you can imagine it was an emotional day, much like the War Remnants museum in Ho Chi Minh.
We left Phnom Penh after a few days to beat the crowds down to Sihanoukville, with no such luck. Sihanoukville is a lovely beach resort on the south coast of the country, a popular holiday destination for Cambodians, especially during the festival. Unfortunately, it is also a popular destination for sex tourists, but thankfully they go to another beach so it wasn't too obvious to us. With loads of backpackers hostels dotted along the beach we managed to find one with free accommodation, no catch, completely free! Completely understandable when we went into the dorm and saw where we were expected to stay! It was fine for 2 nights until Keeley woke up with a cockroach crawling over her and we decided to find somewhere else to stay, and when we found somewhere and saw we had sheets, a clean towel and a bathroom that wasn't outside, we thought we'd found heaven!
Sihanoukville was amazing, we had beautiful sunshine everyday and the beaches were perfect, white sand and lined with palm trees. It really did feel like paradise. My favourite part of the day was at about 5.30, when we'd plonk ourselves into a bucket chair, order an ice cold beer for 50 cents, and watch the sunset over the islands in the distance. And then... once the sun went down, the music was pumping and the bars that lined the beach would start the happy hours! The nightlife here was brilliant, and thankfully we met so many people, every night was better than the one before.
One day we booked a booze cruise. Leaving at 10am and having a Jagerbomb for breakfast on the crammed boat, we headed to an island for cliff jumping, then to Bamboo island where they fired up a BBQ, mixed the cocktails and blared out the reggae! We met some really cool people that day who we ended up spending all our time with. For the first time since we've been away we stayed put for 8 days and relaxed in the sunshine, feeling like we deserved it after spending so long living by our alarm clock.
One day when the weather wasn't great us and a few others rented motos and went on a ride along the coast, going to all the beaches that we hadn't seen before. Along the way, we randomly came across a load of monkeys sitting on a fence, they were hilarious! They stared at us and came over until we gave them all the food we had....we had to throw crisps to get them away. Then the big mamma came and that was when we freaked out, jumped on the motos and sped off! I didn't really want to get on the wrong side of her, she was huge! We then went to a snake and crocodile farm... it was pretty small and pretty crap, a waste of $3, but Keeley and i got to hold a Burmese python! Didn't even flinch...

From Sihanoukville we decided to arrange our Laos visa..big mistake. It cost us 54 dollars and was due to be back at the travel agency in 3 days, so we thought instead we would collect it when we got the next bus... So, when we eventually decided it was time to move on we reluctantly left Sihanoukville and took a 10 hour bus to Siem Reap. But beforehand, we had to collect our passports, but were they there?! The guy told us the taxi had broken down the previous day and so our passports were stuck in Phnom Penh. Thankfully our bus to Siem Reap stopped in Phnom Penh en route. But... we had no idea where we had to go to meet the guy who had them. Eventually we agreed that a little Cambodian guy would come on the bus with us and help us pick them up in the 20 minute stopover between buses. We were not at all satisfied with this but had no choice as we had no passports and were in the completely wrong place to do anything about it. When we arrived in Phnom Penh it was all go... i left Keeley with the bags stopping the next bus from going anywhere and followed this little guy who spoke no English to a petrol station, where we found another guy sitting on a moped waving our passports in the air! I love how they have no concept of our important these things are, but as always, it all worked out in the end!
When we arrived we absolutely loved it, it wasn't at all what we were expecting. The main part of town where we were staying was really pretty, with loads of bars and restuarants that were lit up at night in a way that would make you think you somewhere a million miles away, not somewhere as poor as Cambodia. The plan was to stay just long enough to see the temples. but instead we decided to stay an extra night.
There are markets galore in Siem Reap, selling all sorts of crappy souveniers and trinkets. I did buy a few things made of Cambodian silk for a few dollars, and although i could have bought more i just don't have the space in my backpack. Also in the market was a place where you can have a 'fish foot massage', where you put your feet in a pool of water full of tiny fish and they eat the dead skin off your feet! It was completely gross but i gave it a go before it freaked me out so much i had to get out... i only lasted a couple of minutes. What a wierd experience! One thing i wish i had done was got a 'seeing hands' massage by blind people, but by this point we'd spent too much in Siem Reap so i had to give it a miss, although now I've heard the massages in Laos are just as good.
There were enough restaurants here that we could have gone to a different one 3 times a day and been there for weeks. Also the nightlife was booming; the bars were packed full of backpackers all night long. We actually bumped into one of our mates who we met in Beijing and then again in Hong Kong, which was an added bonus!
Last day in Siem Reap we headed to the temples of Angkor for sunset, which was really impressive. The temples are really beautiful, but after 4 hours i think we'd had enough. Some people get a week pass to see them all, but there are just so many you'd be walking for 12 hours a day, everyday. We got our tuk tuk driver to take us to the main temples, which are Angkor Wat, and Ta Prohm where one of the Tomb Raider movies was filmed.
Overall i've loved Cambodia, it is my favourite place so far. It is so chilled out and there is so much to see and do. To top it off we've met some brilliant people who i expect we will be meeting up with along the way.
As usual i could go on typing forever, but at the moment we are in a place called Kratie en route to Laos and the electricity goes off in most places at night, so i have to stop myself!

Thursday, 6 November 2008

Good Morning Vietnam...

And so after 31 long and exhausting hours of switching countless trains/ buses and taxis and going through border control we arrived in Hanoi, the capital of the north. It was hot and muggy and as usual we were so tired after yet another painful journey! We headed straight to a backpackers hostel that we'd heard about, booked ourselves into a mixed dorm, showered and got downstairs in time for happy hour! We had a few drinks and got chatting to the other backpackers before giving into an early night.
The following day we thought we deserved a treat and so we went to a spa where we had aroma therapy massages, facials, manicures and pedicures. It was the perfect cure after a stressful couple of days! To make sure we didn't completely waste the day away being pampered, we went to the 'Hanoi Hilton', Hoa Lo Prison. This has now been turned into a museum, so you can walk through it and see the conditions in which the Vietnamese prisoners were kept by the French, it was pretty horrendous stuff.
With not a lot else to do in Hanoi (aside from loads of drinking) we booked our boat trip, which is 3 days visiting the surrounding islands. Every backpacker in Hanoi does this trip, and we were lucky to have such a good crowd on ours. We headed to Halong Bay which is a beautiful collection of islands (i think just under 1900 altogether) and visited the caves which are apparently natural but looked like giant water features! Back on the boat we had the first of many tasteless and boring Vietnamese meals (these were all included in the price of the trip so were very basic) and sailed through the islands, generally chilling out, having a few beers on the top deck and taking in the surroundings. We arrived at Cat Ba island that evening where we were spending our first night in a hotel (again, very basic). Our guide took us round the local bars on the island where we stayed for a few, but being hungover from the night before we thought it best to save ourselves for the night on the boat! We spent the next day on the back of a motorbike being taken around the mountains on this lovely little island while the others went trekking (didn't fancy it)! Back on the boat it all began and the group of us started drinking til the early hours, ignoring the 10.30 curfew from the captain and then taking our quilts up and sleeping on the top deck rather than our rooms. Downside though was that we had to be up for 06.30 to go kayaking, which isn't the best thing to do with a hangover! I think Keeley and I only lasted about 20mins before we'd had enough, along with everyone else!
They took us to floating villages where people actually live. They have their little shacks and washing lines and even pet dogs - at least i hope they were pet dogs. They came up to our boat on their rowing boats selling us fruit, god knows where they got it from as we were so far out at sea.
After a day of jumping off the side of the boat into the sea and messing around we had to shoot straight back to the hostel to get changed and ready for our night bus to Hue... we don't like to waste any time!
It was on this bus journey that Vietnam decided to show we were still in the rainy season. The heavens opened and we had the scariest 12 hours driving in the dark on bumpy roads in the torrential rain. Unfortunately it was so bad that when we arrived in Hue the raincoats had to come out and the place started to flood so we moved on straight away. Jumping on the next bus we arrived in Hoi An later that night, still pouring down and still in our raincoats. Hoi An is 'the place to go' to get tailor-made everything! Whatever you want just show them a photo and they'll make it to fit you like a glove! It's meant to be the cheapest place in SE Asia for this. Not wanting to carry anymore than we already had in our backpacks we had our measurements taken. They then keep these on file for 5 years, so i can then send them pics of things i like and they will make it and deliver it to me wherever i am in the world... good or what?! I did get some sandals made there... i couldn't leave with nothing! Hoi An is a beautiful place (mum i think you and dad would like it). They have an old town that's really quaint and peaceful, but there's also cool restaurants and a nice beach and plenty to do and see.
Next stop and another overnight bus later we arrived in Nha Trang...this is the party town of Vietnam and we got there just in time for Hallowe'en! They really overdo it here, purely for the tourists sake. Everything was decorated and the staff in every restaurant and bar were in fancy dress offering all sorts of drink deals. So Keeley and I, and an English girl and a Canadian girl we'd met went for dinner in a restaurant where the drinks are served in jam jars and are completely free!! After a couple of jars of stupidly strong rum and coke we headed straight for the bars where I had my face painted like a big kid. Everyone was in costume so we felt a bit unprepared but it was a good night out (from what i remember)! Our hotel in Nha Trang (called Nice Hotel, and that it was) was in a central location and we managed to get the price of a seaview room knocked down a few dollars, so we stayed in real comfort and even had a bath! (You really take the luxuries for granted at home)!
On someone's recommendation, the next day we got the chairlift (the longest chairlift across the sea in the world) over to 'Vin Pearl land' which is quite possibly the most ridiculous waterpark i've ever known. None of the flumes were open at the same time, so after going on one we had to wait at least an hour before we could go on one more and so on. The place was empty and the whole time the likes of the Spice Girls, Boyzone and Ricky Martin were blaring over the loud speakers. It was funny stuff, and i'm convinced the girl who recommended it was doing it for a laugh. A good day for an amazing (man made) beach for catching some rays, but i wouldn't go back in a hurry!
We went on yet another boat trip, this time to the islands around Nha Trang. A bit worried that we woke up to rain, it ended up being a day of beautiful sunshine and great entertainment from our tour guide Loc aka 'Funky Monkey'. This guy was brilliant, he got everyone on the boat of all nationalities to introduce themselves, and then spoke to them in their language. At the end of the day he even sang a song for each country, and these included France, Oz, New Zealand, Argentina, Canada and Israel. He was so funny and really made the day for us. On the trip we went snorkelling and visited all the islands. Then to finish it off they had a floating bar in the sea that we swam out to for Pineapple vodka shakes. It was a perfect day, and our last day in Nha Trang before moving on to Ho Chi Minh City, aka motorbike city.
We met a Vietnamese guy called Qui who's home doubles up as a guest house. He took us in to live with his wife and son! The room is cheap and has everything we need. On our first day here he took us on the back of a motorbike (risky in this city) for a city tour. We just got started, going to Independance Palace and Notre Dame (whick looks exactly like the one in Paris) when we decided it was too hot to be driving through the city, and not wanting to risk our lives anymore, we decided to go to a waterpark instead. Why didn't we learn from the last time?! This place was even worse than the one we went to before! It was so small that we were over and done with in about 20 minutes, and then it started to rain! Stuck there without Qui to take us back we had to stick it out for the whole day in the pouring rain...not the best way to spend the afternoon when we could have been somewhere having a beer! That night we met up with the girls from Nha Trang for dinner at a local Vietnamese market which was an experience. It's not somewhere tourists go, and so we really got to see how these guys live, and i love it! The people down south are much friendlier than the north. Everything is said with a smile and they are so much more polite and genuinely helpful. You really can notice the divide.
Today, we got up early and the 4 of us went to the Cu Chi tunnels, which is quite a moving place. During the war the Vietnamese built tunnels over 220km long with 3 levels underground where they spent most of their lives for nearly 30 years. They cooked down there and even had their children there. We got a chance to go in, but i only lasted 20 metres before i had to get out. They are only just over a metre high so it was so difficult to walk. There's no air and it's so claustrophobic that i couldn't go any further. The other girls couldn't even go down there because the passages are so dark and narrow. I braved it, but never again! It was an experience though. After the tunnels we went to the War Remnants Museum, which was much much worse than the museum in Hanoi. All i can say is i'm dreading the museums in Cambodia, they are all yet to come.

Anyway, i've left the girls getting ready for our last night in Vietnam. We have chosen an alternative route to Cambodia as we cannot face another night bus, and so we are spending 2 days sailing up the Mekong river to Phnom Penh, i can't wait!
Will update soon.